The Camino de Santiago

 The warm morning sun caressed the quiet square. On the bar's terrace, Carmen and Charo, two lifelong friends, were chatting with the passion of those who have seen every defeat and every victory of their local basketball team. Carmen, a retired teacher, and Charo, who had dedicated her life to nursing, had met that day, as they did every Thursday, to honour a friendship that had given meaning to their routines for years.

"Hey, if Juanjo, our pivot, doesn't recover from his sprain, the Leones are in for a tough time this Friday," stated Carmen, taking a sip of her coffee with milk while rearranging the napkins lying disorderly on the table.

"Bah, nonsense. That last-minute signing, the power forward from Lugo, jumps higher than a kangaroo and is a bull under the hoop," replied Charo, adjusting her jersey over her shoulders. "He might not have Juanjo's experience, but I read he was the top shot-blocker in his league. Without Juanjo, we might lose some rebounding, but this guy brings an energy and defence to the team that we'll need in the upcoming games. You'll see."

Just at that moment, Carmen's gaze drifted beyond the square, where under some plane trees bordering the road, she saw a man with a large, dusty backpack strapped to his back, advancing with a tired but firm step. He carried a staff and an old scallop shell hanging from it, unmistakable symbols of a pilgrim. But something didn't add up.

Carmen frowned.
"Hey, Charo. That pilgrim is lost."
"What's wrong with him?" asked Charo, following her gaze.
"Look, he's walking in the opposite direction from Santiago."

The two women looked at each other; it was evident the man was walking away from where his goal was supposedly meant to be, and in that exchange of glances laden with female complicity, the same thought crossed their minds: they had to help.

They stood up decisively —Carmen picking up her purse and Charo making sure she had her keys— and approached the man.
"Hey, friend! Wait a moment!" called Charo with her clear, warm voice.

The pilgrim stopped. Under the hat, a pair of blue eyes, tired but serene, looked at them. He was tall, with an angular face and a few days' growth of beard.

"Do you speak Spanish?" asked Carmen softly.
"A little," the man replied with a foreign, but understandable, accent.
"It's just… you're going the wrong way. Santiago is the other way," Charo explained to him, elegantly pointing in the opposite direction.

However, the pilgrim, with his limited Spanish, couldn't quite grasp the explanation. He observed Charo's gestures with a polite but confused smile, nodding slightly without truly understanding the message.

The Norwegian —for that is what he was, as they would soon discover— was named Terje. He kindly accepted the invitation to sit and have a coffee. As he drank, he told them he had come from Oslo, walking for months across Europe. Carmen, with the maternal intuition that characterized her, noticed he was cold and offered him her knitted cardigan. Charo, for her part, insisted he order a full breakfast with that welcoming gesture she had inherited from her grandmother.

Faced with the curious questions from Carmen and Charo, Terje spoke of the fjords of Norway, of their abysses of dark water and gelid silence that froze and purified the soul. He described the midnight sun of the Arctic summer, so unreal and persistent that it blurred the line between dream and wakefulness.

"Oh, Oslo!" exclaimed Charo, her eyes shining with excitement. "Carmen and I are avid travellers. We've been to many places together... right, Carmina?"
Carmen nodded with a complicit smile. "Last year we were in Vienna, we loved it. But we've never made it to Oslo. I've always wanted to see those fjords you talk about."
"That's what we'll do on our next trip," confirmed Charo. "Even more so after listening to you."
Next, Terje told them of the infinite forests, those green lungs of Norway where the trees whisper secrets in a language older than men. He spoke of his journey and the solitude that accompanied it, of the weight and the lightness of carrying everything one needs on one's back.

The two friends, fascinated, listened to the stories Terje told them, exchanging looks of amazement and completely forgetting about the basketball game.

Carmen, a practical and resolute woman, gave a soft slap on the table.
"This won't do! You have to see Santiago with us! Come on, we'll take you."
"And then to lunch," added Charo while searching for something in her bag. "We're going to celebrate your journey! And I know just the perfect place."

Terje smiled, a little overwhelmed by such effusiveness, but he went along with the adventure. He thought they were two women of extraordinary kindness. In less than five minutes, the three of them were squeezed into Carmen's car, which still smelled of the lavender bouquets she always kept on the back seat.

In Santiago, the two friends acted as impromptu tour guides: they showed him the Cathedral façade and climbed the Bell Tower to enjoy the views over the rooftops. Afterwards, they went down to the squares, first to Quintana and then to Plaza de Platerías. To regain their strength, they had some cold beers in a bar on Rúa do Franco, where Charo chatted animatedly with the owner. Finally, they went for lunch at a seafood restaurant Carmen had known for years, where conversation and laughter flowed naturally, weaving complicity between dishes.

It was just after finishing coffee that Terje looked at his watch and said calmly:
"Thank you for everything, really. It has been an unexpected gift. But I must leave if I want to reach Sobrado dos Monxes this afternoon. It's the stage I had planned."

Carmen and Charo stared at him, dumbfounded.
"Sobrado? Why Sobrado? But weren't you heading to Santiago?" asked Charo, completely bewildered, instinctively bringing a hand to her chest.
"No," said Terje with an understanding smile. "I arrived in Santiago a week ago. Now I am on my return, walking back north. I planned to sleep in Sobrado dos Monxes today."

Everything fell silent for a moment. They had made the trip backwards! They had brought him right back to where he had come from. But instead of feeling ridiculous, the two friends looked at each other and began to laugh with that contagious laughter born of absurdity.

"Well, you're not going to sleep in Sobrado today!" exclaimed Carmen. "If we already brought you here by mistake, now we're taking you to the coast, to make up for it! You have to see Finisterre, the 'End of the World' cape, which is the true ancient path."

Terje, who had accepted the misunderstanding with gratitude, raised no further objections. The car roared back to life, this time heading for the coast, with Charo playing traditional Galician music and explaining the legends of each town they passed through. The Nordic pilgrim, who had undertaken a solitary journey of thousands of kilometres, discovered that sometimes the best plans are the ones broken by —or thanks to— the spontaneous kindness of two strangers. Little by little, the inland landscape gave way to the imminence of the ocean: the road now wound between moss-covered stone walls and centuries-old hórreos, until the vast blue expanse finally opened up before them.

In the late afternoon, they arrived at the tip of Finisterre. The wind blew strongly, swirling the clouds in a sky tinged with oranges and purples. Carmen, always prepared, pulled an old woollen blanket from the boot, thick and soft, smelling of car and roads travelled. Under its shelter, the three huddled shoulder to shoulder, sharing warmth as the ocean roared at their feet.

Terje, Carmen, and Charo sat on the rocks. Three souls united by a misunderstanding, a car smelling of lavender, and a detour. They watched as the sun began its descent over an ancient cliff, tamed by time, imbued with salt spray and the whisper of a million stories of sailors, shipwrecks, and returns, to merge with the waters of the Atlantic. All of it accompanied by the constant, almost breathing, rhythm of the ocean. They watched as that thin line of light, orange, red, and purple, slid away, narrowing until it disappeared into the blackness of the sea.

Behind them, the coastal woods rose like wild and mystical gardens, where stone and moss merge in perfect symbiosis. And beyond that, the known world: the Way, the villages, the warmth of a cup of broth. An intimate contrast against the immensity of the twilight.

"In my country," said Terje, breaking the silence, "we have a word: 'oresund'. It means the flash of light seen on the horizon after the sun has set. It's like a promise that it will return."
"Here we call it 'the green ray'," smiled Charo. "They say whoever sees it gains the gift of understanding their own heart."

None of them saw the green ray that sunset, but Terje felt something just as magical happening inside him. As the last strip of light vanished into the infinite horizon, he took out his pilgrim's credential —where he had stamped all the days of his journey— and a notepad in which he noted everything he had experienced. On a blank page where he should have written "Return to Sobrado dos Monxes", he wrote: "Finisterre. The Beginning."

Twilight gave way to a starry night, and the old blanket from the boot continued to warm them as the conversation flowed, increasingly slow and sleepy. The sound of the sea became a lullaby, and one by one, with their heads resting on each other's shoulders, without having planned it, the three fell asleep there, at the end of the world, rocked by the breath of the Atlantic. It was as if time, in that secluded corner, had gone into reverse: the wrinkles softened on their faces and the weight of the years faded from their bodies, revealing the young people they once were. The first rays of day found them like this, intertwined, with their hair and eyelashes glittering with the morning dew, slowly awakening with a new dawn on the horizon.

They would have breakfast in some bar in the town of Finisterre and return to Santiago. During the journey, Charo gave Terje a small woollen good-luck charm, while Carmen advised him on which paths to take on his return.

As they said goodbye with a warm embrace that seemed to stop time, Carmen rested her head on his shoulder and whispered near his ear:

"You know? My grandmother used to tell me that straight paths are for those in a hurry. Those of us who are wise," she added with a smile in her voice, "prefer the paths with twists and turns."

And in the farewell embrace, the three felt that an invisible thread had been created between them, one of those that time cannot break.

mvf.